Friday, October 23, 2009

Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) Dilemma

I've been using Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) batteries for about eight years now, and have been saving oodles of $$cash$$ by not buying disposables. I've been so impressed by the performance of NiMH batteries that I've spent many hours reading about the chemistry and experimenting with many different brands of cells and chargers. I currently use three different chargers/analyzers:

  • Powerex Maha MH-C9000 (analyzer/charger)
  • Lenmar MSCAA (charger only)
  • Lacrosse Technology BC-9009 (analyzer/charger)

    Between the two analyzers, the Maha is easier to use, but the Lacrosse is smaller and better for taking on trips.

    Today I semi-retired a 20 pack of Lenmar 2500 mAH cells which I bought two years ago. They have been used in virtually every piece of equipment I own that take AA cells and have worked beautifully. Even after 2 years they still provide about 70% of rated capacity. It is important to note that their good performance is because they are regularly used and frequently charged. I am retiring them mostly because their plastic casing is shredding and I am concerned about short circuits between cells.

    And Today, I received their replacement: a 20 pack of Sunpak 2650 cells. I'd first tried Sunpak batteries when they were loaned to me by Andrew D. for use in my tech flashlight. I was impressed at their capacity and their better than average self-discharge rate. I hoped these cells would do as well. They were purchased from Adorama at a cost of $32 including shipping. Just out of the box, however, they offered me a new disappointment. Two of the cells were DEAD. No voltage, could not be charged. I'd read reviews online when people wrote about Lenmar and other brands of batteries having DOA's but I'd never had it happen to me. Two out of twenty.

    When you get a shorted Nickel Cadmium (NiCd) you take it to a power supply and zap the hell out of it, in order to break up a crystalline structure which has formed in the electrolyte. So I thought I'd try the same thing with these, seeing as how they were destined for the trash bin. Using an Agilent U8002A bench supply, I set voltage at 12v and current at 500 milliamps. The first one started taking a charge (from zero volts) very slowly, then when it hit about 200 millivolts it suddenly ZOOMED up to 1.4 volts. At that point I put it in my Lacrosse charger and as I write this, it is still charging. The second battery stayed dead. Zap, zap zap. At 500 milliamps it wasn't making a dent. So I thumbed the current first to 1A (zap zap zap, nothing) and then to 2A. On the second zap, the battery broke free and started slowly charging! (I was prepared to take the Agilent all the way up to its rated 5A. I'm glad that wasn't necessary.)

    So... both "dead" cells are now charging and if my guess is correct, the discharge tests on the first run will suck, but then after the 3rd or 4th cycle they will be as good as the other 18 batteries.

    If you don't have a bench power supply and want to see if you can un-short your NiMH batteries, here is something you can try. It is (mostly) harmless, so even if it doesn't work you shouldn't lose anything. Take your dead cell and a perfectly good fully charged one. They must both be NiMH. Put them in your palm parallel, so both (+) buttons face the same way. Take two quarters (or other large coinage) and put one each across the terminals at each end. Hold firmly for about 3-5 seconds -- but not longer than 5 seconds. You may or may not see a spark when you do this -- don't worry about it. Afterwards, put the "dead" cell into a charger and see if the charger now charges it. If not, repeat the procedure with the quarters, maybe using a different fully charged battery.

    I guarantee this will work for some, but probably not all, DOA cells. It doesn't hurt to try, and if it works you've rescued your investment! Just remember that recovered DOA cells will need 3-4 charge/discharge cycles before they run at capacity.

    And bear in mind: NiMH cells only hold effective charge for about two weeks. Charge your batteries just before using them if you want best performance. (This does not apply to those newer ultra-slow discharge batteries like Sanyo Eneloop. Charging these every 6-12 months probably adequate.)
  • Sunday, October 18, 2009

    Printer Ink Karma

    If you haven't guessed, I am a *BIG* fan of D.I.Y. I've been repairing minor and major appliances, lawn mowers, cars, stereos, motherboards, ... just about anything and everything that comes with a sticker that says "No User Serviceable Parts Inside." And my success ratio is pretty darn good. I usually can get the car back together after major surgery and have only 2 or 3 screws left over. Just kidding.

    One of the big money saving DIY efforts of our generation is refilling ink cartridges. Overall, one full refill of all 5 tanks on my Canon MP600 saves about $50. Since there are two such printers in the house, that means that $hundreds have been saved over the years. There is one tool that makes this possible: the German-made Canon cartridge chip resetter. I got one when they first came out and it cost me a fortune: $68. But the ink savings have well justified it.

    Today I went to refill a cyan cartridge. I always(?) reset the chip first, as it is less messy to use the resetter on an empty cartridge than a full one. This time, the unit was DEAD. No lights, no activity. I first suspected a bad cartridge. Nope, a yellow cartridge didn't work on it either. Next I guessed that after 2 years maybe the lithium battery had gone dead. So I popped it open and tested the voltage. Still good. Just for kicks I replaced the battery anyway. Still no go.

    I poked around the PC board, looking for short circuits, dirt, bad connections, anything. Nothing. Basic DVM tests showed power going to the microcontroller and that it seemed to be otherwise mechanically and electrically sound. Finally after 30 minutes of playing with the thing, I gave up.

    So... back onto Ebay I go, and the current day cost on a similar unit is $17.30. I go ahead and buy it. I kid you not, TEN seconds after I pressed the "Confirm Payment" button I had a thought: What about the "hit it when it don't work" philosophy? Nah, it's such a tiny circuit board with almost nothing on it. It'll never work. Twenty seconds after I had pressed the "Confirm Payment" button, and I dropped the unit on my desk from a height of about 5 inches. Klunk! it went.

    And guess what! IT WORKS again!

    Is this a fluke, or are the gods of Consumer Electronics karma frowning on me today?

    I sense that Murphy is smirking at me from the next room.